Whangārei Heads: Where the Land Meets the Sea (and Keeps Calling You Back)

Whangārei Heads is one of those places that quietly sneaks into your favourites list — and then refuses to leave. Tucked into Northland’s rugged coastline, it offers the perfect short-break escape: wild beaches, dramatic volcanic peaks, sheltered bays, and that constant sense that you’re never done discovering it.

It’s close enough to Whangārei town to duck back in if needed, yet far enough away to feel like you’ve properly escaped the hum of everyday life. And like New Zealand itself, no matter how many times you visit, Whangārei Heads always seems to reveal something new.

Ocean Beach, Bays & Blue Horizons

Ocean Beach is often the first stop — long, open, and exposed to the ocean, making it ideal for swimming on calm days or surfing when the swell is up. Nearby coves and inlets offer gentler conditions, perfect for snorkelling, paddling, or launching a kayak.

Out on the water (or even just standing on shore), there’s always the potential for magic. The Reotahi Marine Reserve is a haven for marine life and birdlife alike, and it’s not uncommon to spot dolphins cruising past, rays gliding below the surface, or seabirds working the water.

Whether you’re fishing from the rocks, drifting in a kayak, or out on a boat, the ocean here feels alive.

Walking Tracks & the Call of Mt Manaia

For those who prefer to explore on foot, Whangārei Heads delivers in spades. One of the standout climbs is Mt Manaia — steep, rooty, and demanding, but absolutely worth it. The views from the top stretch across the harbour and out to sea, rewarding every step and every slightly burning calf muscle along the way.

But our definite favourite walk has to be the Smugglers Bay Loop Track.

It’s the kind of track that feels perfectly designed for a day well spent. You can fish and swim at the sheltered cove, take your time soaking it all in, then loop back via farmland and ridgelines that deliver some of the most stunning coastal views

in the area. Wide skies, rolling hills, and that sense of space that makes you slow down without even realising it.

Smugglers Bay also holds a bit of personal legend status — it’s where I caught my very first squid… and promptly got inked in the process. Craig, of course, will never let me forget it.

Simple Stays & Unexpected Finds

Every trip seems to bring a new discovery, and this time it was our accommodation — the cutest little cabin tucked into native bush, booked through Airbnb. With ocean views out front and kiwi calling from the bush behind at night, it felt impossibly special for such a simple stay. I’ll be sharing more about that separately, but let’s just say it’s an easy recommendation for solo travellers or couples wanting peace, views, and nature right on their doorstep.

Falling asleep to kiwi calls is something that never gets old.

Why Whangārei Heads Works So Well

Whangārei Heads is wonderfully choose-your-own-adventure:

• Water lovers: grab your togs, snorkel, surfboard, kayak, or fishing gear and get out there.

  
  

• Land explorers: fill your reusable water bottle, lace up your hiking boots, and take your pick of tracks, loops, and climbs.

  
  

• Wildlife watchers: keep your eyes on the water and the skies — you never know what will show up.

It’s an easy place to slow down, but never a boring one. Whether you’re there for a weekend or longer, you’ll leave feeling refreshed — and already planning your next visit.

So if you find yourself in Northland, do yourself a favour: head to Whangārei Heads. Get salty, get muddy, get inked by a squid if you must — just get out there and explore.