Fishing, Footpaths & Ferry Rides: A Day on Urupukapuka Island

Bay of Islands, New Zealand

There’s something about a recommendation that keeps resurfacing. Urupukapuka Island had been mentioned to me more than once as a must visit in the Bay of Islands. Then, when I started searching for ideas for Craig’s slightly-belated birthday adventure, it popped up again — this time with the tempting promise of a “fishing adventure.” That sealed it.

As the largest island in the Bay of Islands, Urupukapuka is also one of the most accessible. With no vehicular access, abundant wildlife, walking tracks, beaches and fishing spots — not to mention its history as the original fish camp of American author and legendary sport fisherman Zane Grey (immortalised in his 1926 book Tales of the Anglers’ El Dorado: New Zealand) — it ticked every box for a remote yet reachable escape.

Originally, we planned to camp at one of the DOC sites, but in the end we settled on a day trip. Sometimes a taste is enough to know you’ll want to come back for more.

Crossing to the Island

Based in Okiato, Russell, we booked the late-morning ferry with Explore Group (you can also depart from Paihia). At $70 per adult return (or $40 for children), it’s considerably cheaper than the larger boat tours that stop by places like the Hole in the Rock — and it gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace.

Backpack slung over one shoulder and Craig’s travel rod in hand, we boarded on an overcast early-February summer morning. The crossing takes around 40 minutes — long enough to feel like you’re going somewhere special, but short enough to remain easy and relaxed.

The sea was calm, the crossing smooth. Passing scattered islands across the glittering bay, it’s hard not to feel that familiar excitement of being out on the water. By the time we docked at Otehei Bay, the earlier drizzle had eased and the sun was tentatively breaking through.

Coffee First, Then Adventure

We made the excellent decision to begin with coffee at the island’s café at Otehei Bay. I have to say — I was incredibly impressed with the range of gluten-free cakes and snacks available. A long black for me, a latte for Craig, and a slow moment to take it all in.

Urupukapuka is crisscrossed with well-marked, colour-coded walking tracks catering to various abilities.

Feeling energetic (and perhaps overly confident), we chose the Paradise Bay Track — which just happened to be the steepest option. Naturally.

The climb was worth every step. From the higher vantage points, the views opened up across rolling green hills, secluded coves, and further out to the wider Bay of Islands. Even under a soft grey sky, the scenery was stunning.

The birdlife provided a constant soundtrack — tūī, fantails, and other native species flitting between trees and calling overhead. With no vehicle noise and only the occasional hiker passing by, it felt wonderfully untouched.

Paradise Bay, Casting & Ray Watching

By the time we reached Paradise Bay, the tide was turning from low. One other person wandered the beach, and a handful of boats sat quietly moored offshore. It was peaceful in that rare way — expansive yet intimate.

We headed to the rocks on the left-hand side so Craig could try his luck with some soft baiting.

While he focused on casting, I wandered along the shallows, scanning the water.

It didn’t take long before I spotted movement — a pair of eagle rays gliding effortlessly through the shallows. There’s something mesmerising about the way they move, silent and prehistoric, like shadows

drifting beneath the surface. A reminder of why I’m always watching the water.

As the tide pushed in, we kept one eye on the time — ferry schedules wait for no one — and mentally tallied what else we wanted to squeeze into the day.

The Walk Back & One Last Pause

The return walk somehow felt shorter (doesn’t it always?). A few pauses to admire the views, a couple of chats with fellow hikers, and soon we were back at Otehei Bay.

We briefly considered hiring kayaks — exploring the other side of the island by water would be incredible — but time wasn’t on our side. That, we decided, is firmly on the list for next time.

Instead, we opted for something equally enjoyable: sitting by the water with a drink. A beer for Craig; a ginger beer for me. We watched children jumping off the pontoon and feeding snapper beneath the jetty, their silver flashes visible in the clear water. It was simple and wholesome and exactly how a day like this should end.

When the ferry arrived, we claimed our same seats at the back of the boat. The return journey took us via Paihia before heading back to Russell. Gannets dove dramatically behind us, piercing the water in perfect formations, and — true to form — I kept scanning the surface for any sign of dolphins or other marine life.

Why Urupukapuka Should Be on Your List

Urupukapuka Island offers that rare combination: accessible adventure with a feeling of true remoteness.

Whether you’re:

• Hiking panoramic coastal tracks

• Fishing from rocky outcrops

• Kayaking hidden bays

• Camping under the stars at a DOC site

• Or simply enjoying coffee and beach time with family

…it caters to adults and kids alike.

For us, it was the perfect laid-back birthday adventure — a day of fresh air, wildlife, history, and ocean views. Next time, we’ll stay longer. Camping is definitely on the menu.

If you’re looking for a natural escape within the Bay of Islands that blends land and sea adventure effortlessly, Urupukapuka Island might just be exactly what you’re searching for.

And if you only go for the day — trust me — you’ll already be planning your return ferry before you’ve even docked back on the mainland.