Bay of Islands, New Zealand: Where History, Ocean, and the Soul Keep Calling You Back

There are some places that quietly mark your life, and no matter how far you roam, they keep tugging at you. For me, the Bay of Islands is one of those places. For over twenty years it has held a truly special place in my heart—one that continues to draw me back, and now, my partner Craig too.

This corner of the Northlands isn’t just a destination; it’s a feeling. A blend of ocean air, layered history, relaxed living, and landscapes that invite you to slow down and stay awhile.

The Heart of the Bay: Kerikeri & Russell

Two places always stand out for me here: Kerikeri and Russell.

Kerikeri has a grounded, creative energy—historic yet lived-in. It’s one of the earliest European settlements in New Zealand and remains deeply connected to its Māori roots. You feel that history in the Stone Store, Kemp House, and along the river walks, but also in the way the town balances modern life with a strong sense of place.

Russell, once known as the “Hellhole of the Pacific,” wears its past with charm now. It’s atmospheric, soulful, and full of stories—from whaling days to missionary settlements. Wandering its streets, sitting by the water, or simply watching boats move across the bay feels timeless.

Staying in Okiato: A Quieter Perspective

This visit, we stayed in Okiato, just a short vehicle ferry ride from Opua (near Paihia), with a foot passenger ferry running straight across to Russell. It’s a peaceful base that still keeps you connected to everything.

We rented a gorgeous little ocean-themed cabin overlooking the bay and ferry route—a place called The Reel Haus. Think calm mornings, changing tides, and ferries gliding past as the day unfolds. (More on that in the review—it’s a gem.)

Ocean Days, Beach Walks & Easy Living

The Bay of Islands is made for slowing down. Days naturally fall into a rhythm of:

• Beachside walks

• Wildlife spotting

• Sitting with a coffee watching the water

• And the occasional spontaneous swim

Long Beach in Russell is an absolute must—wide, golden, and perfect for both quiet reflection and lazy afternoons. It’s one of those beaches that makes time feel optional.

After a day in the sun, we stumbled upon a lovely little garden bar called Hones Bar—relaxed, welcoming, and exactly the kind of place you want to end up without planning to.

Waterfalls & Natural Beauty

Beyond the coastline, the Bay delivers spectacular inland scenery too. Some of our favourite waterfall stops include:

• Haruru Falls – easily accessible and historically significant

• Rainbow Falls – dramatic and powerful, especially after rain

• Charlie’s Rock Falls – a bit more tucked away and worth the wander

These spots add another layer to the Bay’s appeal, showing just how diverse the landscape really is.

An Oceanic Past, A Timeless Pull

The Bay of Islands is steeped in maritime history—canoes, sailing ships, whaling vessels, ferries, and fishing boats have shaped life here for centuries. That oceanic past still hums quietly beneath everything, from the harbours to the headlands.

Whether you’re here for history, relaxation, nature, or adventure, you’ll find something that fits. And chances are, like us, you won’t just come once.

The Bay has a way of calling you back—again and again.