Iceland in Three Nights: Freedom, Frost & Following the Flow

At the beginning of December, Craig and I escaped for a three-night break to Iceland — a trip that perfectly summed up how we travel, how I feel about travel, and why it continues to be such a huge part of who I am.

Travel is something I thrive on. It feeds my soul and directly connects to one of my core values: freedom. The excitement of future trips, new landscapes, and different ways of living always lights me up. That said, there’s another side to travel I don’t love quite so much — the organisation. As much as I get excited about upcoming adventures, I can easily feel overwhelmed by the planning side of things, especially when it’s layered on top of everyday life. If anything, that overwhelm has definitely worsened with age.

So it felt very fitting that this particular trip was organised in true us style — last minute, loosely planned, and very much go-with-the-flow.

Getting There (Eventually)

We flew with EasyJet out of Gatwick on the Friday, with our flight delayed by around an hour — nothing dramatic, just enough to set the tone. We returned back into Gatwick on the Monday, making the most of every hour in between.

Our car hire wasn’t booked until we were actually at Gatwick airport waiting to board. We booked with Budget at Keflavík Airport and were upgraded due to heavy snow to a 4x4 Dacia Duster — a blessing given the winter conditions and the amount of ground we planned to cover.

As for accommodation? Very on brand for us — nothing booked in advance. Even on a short break. On longer-haul trips, this is fairly standard for us, but I know for many people a three-night trip usually means staying in one place. Not for us. We did three nights, three hotels, and three locations, following our route of exploration rather than an itinerary.

Night One: Hafnarfjörður & Northern Lights Magic

Our first hotel was booked that same day, based on a recommendation and its proximity to Reykjavík — close enough, but not in the city centre. Neither of us enjoy busy, crowded places, so Hafnarfjörður felt like the perfect base.

Arriving late, we drove past the lit-up harbour, with Christmas decorations lining the streets and buildings. It looked incredibly pretty and felt festive without being overwhelming.

The Viking Hotel was our home for the night — quaint, themed around Vikings (it’s actually an old film set rather than a real Viking village). The room was tiny. Very tiny. Craig described it perfectly: “It’s like a cabin on a boat.” Thankfully, we’re both small and only staying one night.

We wasted no time — after checking in, we headed straight to the hot tub and sauna, grabbed something to eat, layered up, filled our travel coffee cups (an absolute must in Iceland in December — thanks to a friend’s advice), and set off in search of the northern lights.

Using a tracker app and Craig’s research, we headed out around 11pm to Seltjarnarnes, near the Grotta Lighthouse on the other side of Reykjavík. After walking along a dark beach to the lighthouse and back, we were lucky enough to see the northern lights — and they were awesome. I would highly recommend that location.

Day Two: Golden Circle Highlights

After a night’s sleep, we were up early for breakfast. The buffet actually had several wheat-free options for me, which was a great start. I don’t normally eat breakfast as I intermittent fast, but when I’m away — especially with a full day of exploring in minus temperatures — I relax the rules.

With very limited daylight in December (sunrise around 11am, sunset about 3:30pm), we were short on time. I really wanted to see sunrise at the tectonic plates in Thingvellir National Park, so we headed straight there.

After a hike and some exploring, we found the perfect spot to watch the sunrise — absolutely worth the early start. We followed this with a walk through the rift valley where the North American and Eurasian plates are slowly pulling apart. Parking here was 1000 ISK (around £5).

Next stop: the Geysers — one of the main reasons I wanted to visit Iceland, due to its similarities with my favourite place in the world, New Zealand. Watching Strokkur erupt multiple times was impressive, and it made for a much-needed loo stop and coffee refill.

Parking again was a flat fee based on vehicle type.

After a few scenic stops, we reached Gullfoss Falls — without question the highlight of my day. Snow- and ice-covered, surrounded by winter landscapes, it was absolutely breathtaking. Walking down to it was a challenge due to the icy paths, but it was more than worth it. I love waterfalls, and wherever we travel, they usually shape our plans. Gullfoss is now one of my favourites I’ve ever seen.

By this point, the sun was dropping fast and the cold was setting in. Accommodation for the night hadn’t yet been decided — so Craig continued driving along the Golden Circle until we reached Selfoss. Sitting in the hotel car park, I booked us into Hotel Selfoss via the Hotels.com app.

Yet another upgrade greeted us — this time to a premium river and mountain view room.

Night Two: Spa Bliss in Selfoss

The hotel had a free spa, which was an absolute godsend after a long, cold day of walking. Craig has osteoarthritis, so heat therapy is ideal for him, and I was more than happy to join.

Even better — there was a Christmas party happening in the hotel, which meant we had the entire spa and health club to ourselves. Hot pool, sauna, steam room, cold bath, relaxation rooms — all ours. We made the most of every minute.

That evening, we wandered around the town, found a gluten-free beer for me (a win), and took a gentle stroll before checking again for the northern lights — but no luck that night.

Day Three: Volcanoes, Blue Lagoon & Reflection

Our final full day started with another impressive buffet breakfast, again with plenty of wheat-free options. Then we headed south towards the volcanoes, driving along the coast into Grindavík, before finishing at the Blue Lagoon.

The landscape shifted dramatically — from snow-capped mountains to lava fields with far less snow. Sadly, Grindavík still feels unsettled and largely deserted following last summer’s eruptions. Cracks in houses and the absence of people made it a sobering place to pass through.

We couldn’t not visit the Blue Lagoon, so once again we booked our entry pretty much from the car park. With time to spare before our slot, we grabbed a coffee and wandered around.

We deliberately left our phones in the lockers to fully enjoy the experience. I used the face mask provided — Craig politely declined. We spent around four hours soaking, relaxing, and unwinding.

That said, I did have one gripe. As someone who works in health and wellbeing and actively promotes self-care, it was hard not to notice how many people seemed unable to disconnect. Phones everywhere — selfie mode, FaceTime calls, even people taking work calls while standing in the water. It really highlighted how much the concept of being present can get lost. Privacy standards that would apply in the UK also didn’t seem to exist here. That was my only negative — and I think that’s more a reflection of society than the venue itself.

Final Night & Heading Home

Our final night was spent at The Lighthouse Inn, which I booked so we’d be close to Keflavík for our flight home. Located on the Reykjanes Peninsula in the town of Garður, this hotel was a real gem. Norwegian lodge-style, single-storey, peaceful, and welcoming — I’d highly recommend it.

The restaurant served a lovely selection of food, and I had the cod, which was absolutely amazing.

The next morning, after breakfast, it was time to head back to the airport and fly home to Gatwick.

Final Thoughts

This is somewhere we both know we’ll return to — to explore different regions and see more of what Iceland has to offer. For lovers of nature, outdoor adventure, and raw landscapes, it’s hard to beat. And being only a short flight from the UK makes it even more appealing.

This trip reminded me that travel doesn’t have to be perfectly planned to be deeply fulfilling. Sometimes, freedom looks like trusting yourself, embracing the chaos, and booking the hotel from the car park.

And honestly? That’s when some of the best memories are made.