Tropical North Queensland Escape: Palm Cove, Cairns & Rainforest Adventures on Our East Coast Australia Road Trip

Palm Cove, Cairns & the Tropical North

From our time in Townsville, we began the drive back up towards the Cairns region, where I’d pre-booked a stay just north in beautiful Palm Cove. We wanted a beachside base—somewhere peaceful, yet perfectly placed to explore Tropical North Queensland.

A Tropical Hideaway: The Reef Retreat

Our accommodation, The Reef Retreat, was another great find. I booked a Superior Spa Suite for four nights, and it truly delivered. Set on the ground floor, our suite featured a semi-outdoor kitchen and dining space overlooking the pool—something a little different and very fitting for the tropical setting.

We arrived just after sunset, so the full beauty didn’t reveal itself until morning. Reception had closed, but everything had been seamlessly arranged, with our key ready and waiting. Our suite—Room 26, “Maori”—felt tucked away in lush greenery, surrounded by dark wood finishes, winding pathways, and local wildlife.

Yes… wildlife. Lizards, birds—and of course, the possibility of spiders. It is Australia after all.

Despite my nightly insistence that Craig check every corner (under beds, behind curtains—you name it), we didn’t encounter a single huntsman or anything remotely terrifying the entire trip!

The room itself was stunning. From the décor to the layout, and especially the spa bath—which we made full use of—it was the perfect place to unwind after long days exploring.

First Night Flavours: Tapas in Paradise

After settling in, we were both hungry, so after a quick freshen up and I made an opportunity to wear a summer dress I’d purchased a while back one of my favourite boutiques in Paihia in Bay of Islands ‘Embellish Home & Resort’, by Amuse Society. The humidity in Palm Cove was high so it was ideal to wear in the evening. We headed out along the beachfront and stumbled upon Miguel's Spanish Restaurant.

Tapas is something I love making at home, so it was great introducing Craig to a few new dishes in such an incredible setting. Sitting outside, with warm evening air, tropical bird sounds, and a glass of local red—it felt like the perfect welcome to North Queensland.

Into the Rainforest: Kuranda & Skyrail

The next morning, coffee in our semi-outdoor kitchen was a novelty I could have easily got used to. Then it was off for one of the highlights of the trip—visiting Kuranda.

We chose to travel via the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway—despite my fear of heights! Floating above the rainforest canopy was both nerve-wracking and breathtaking. The journey includes stop-offs along the way, which I appreciated more than Craig probably realised.

At the top, Kuranda village offered a relaxed, creative vibe—local crafts, artwork, and hidden gems like the Kuranda Opal Cave. I even came away with a beautiful necklace.

With time to spare, we spontaneously booked the Kuranda Riverboat Tour. It turned out to be one of the best decisions of the day. With only one other passenger, it felt personal and peaceful. Our guide shared fascinating insights into the area’s history while pointing out turtles, freshwater crocodiles, and birdlife.

The local art works and crafts were eye catching, I kept going back to a shop that had a metal hand crafted ray and if it hadn’t of been for the issues of getting it back to the UK I would of got it as it was awesome and of course it was a ray so its going to take my interest. 

On the return journey via Skyrail, we explored the stop-offs, including the stunning Barron Falls. I even braved the glass-floor viewing platform—something that surprised us both!

It’s easy to see why David Attenborough described the Daintree Rainforest as “the most extraordinary place on Earth.” I’d have to agree.

Barrons Falls

The trip down was also as stunning as the way up, the only thing I think we would do differently next time is one do the railway on either the ascent or descent as that is meant to be an incredible ride, but that will unfortunately have to wait for our next visit.

We of course finished our cable journey with a coffee in the café there before heading back to Palm Cove. We made sure before getting back to The Reef Retreat we drove via the beach and the pontoon at the end to check out the ocean, fishing potential for that night or following day.

Evenings Done Right: O’Donnells

That evening, we used a voucher from our hotel at O'Donnells Irish Bar & Grill.

Walking up to it, we could hear the live music before we even got there, it was busy and a great vibe greeted us on entering. The atmosphere was buzzing—live music, great energy, and delicious comfort food.

A rare steak for me, sausages and mash for Craig, and a couple of glasses of red, whilst enjoying the local band play was a great way to end the night before we leisurely walked back along the beach path.

Coastal Drives & Croc Country

After an early wake for me as usual and coffee overlooking the pool, the sun was shining and we headed north towards Port Douglas and the Daintree River.

This stretch of coastline is simply stunning.

We stopped for walks, explored local shops (including my now-favourite Ghanda Clothing), and even scouted fishing spots.

Swimming wasn’t on the agenda—'Salties' crocodile awareness is very real here—but the scenery and marine life made up for it. Stops like Ellis Beach are the kind of places you could easily lose hours in.

Getting back to our suite, we of course used the spa and a swim but we chilled that evening ready for a day in Cairns the following day. 

A Rainy Day in Cairns

On waking, once again coffee watching a random lizard on the tree outside our kitchen planning our day. We were heading into Cairns, I wanted to check out the aquarium as due to the sea conditions that I mentioned in previous blog, weren’t ideal for the reef as I would of love to do Green Island and the Reef Pontoon.

First stop: Cairns Aquarium. This place is incredible. We started with coffee beside a huge tank filled with vibrant fish and leopard sharks. Then into this incredible place filled with ocean and river wonders and exploring the different exhibits.  As an ocean lover, who’s fascinated by marine and sea life, a day out at aquariums is a perfect ‘date’ visit whether I am with just Craig, or the kids (luckily they still love sea or animal based experiences).  Plus the weather was forecast heavy rain with intermittent showers so a great idea for a wet day.

We were in there for a good couple of hours, exploring and staring at the massive array of fish, sea creatures and sharks and of course the rays and I would recommend it for all ages. There was so much to learn and quite a few that I have never seen before.

From reef species to jellyfish (particularly relevant during stinger season), it was both educational and mesmerising. Easily a must-visit—rain or shine.

Afterwards, we walked along the Esplanade (slightly underestimating the distance!), past the outdoor lagoon and ray sculpture admiring the creative work that had gone into it, towards the Cairns Botanic Gardens.

Completely free and beautifully maintained, the gardens are a peaceful escape filled with tropical plants and shaded pathways. We always try to visit botanical gardens when we travel—they’re such a great way to connect with a place and a great way to build in your daily steps in the most stunning of locations.

Of course, the rain eventually caught us. Tropical rain is no joke—but still warm, and honestly, part of the experience. We didn’t get far along this path when the rain started, we couldn’t avoid it, stepping under trees in to try and miss some of the heavier showers but we were wet there was no getting away from it. A quick change of clothes back at the car and we were good to go again.

On the way back to our accommodation, we stopped at a few places to take it in and get ideas for future trips, plus obviously stopped at local fishing spots and bait shops as Craig just cant resist the temptation to have a look in.

Farewell Palm Cove

For our final night, we returned to O’Donnells, because when something works, why change it? This time I opted for fish and Craig for steak and once again it didn’t disappoint.

Another great meal, a beachside stroll, and one last soak in the spa wrapped up our stay perfectly, as we would have to be up early for a flight from Cairns back down to Brisbane the following morning.

Final Thoughts

The Reef Retreat truly lived up to everything we wanted—beautiful, relaxing, and perfectly located. Their apartments and suites are as I have said before stunningly decorated in this tropical setting with the sound of the sea and local bird life reminding you that you are in nature. So many little touches to make you feel that extra bit special too, thank you again.

From rainforest adventures to coastal drives and incredible wildlife experiences, Tropical North Queensland completely exceeded expectations.

We’ll absolutely be back to this awesome area of the Australian East Coast.

Next stop: back down to Brisbane and onto the Gold Coast to wrap up what has been an unforgettable East Coast adventure…