I didn’t expect my recent 30-hour layover in Bali  to become one of the most confronting environmental experiences of my life. Friends who live up in the far north of the island had warned us: “You won’t get the real Bali unless you head up here.”  Unfortunately, with such a short stay, Craig and I simply didn’t have the time. We agreed this would be our taster trip — and next time, we’d explore beyond the main tourist stretch. We stayed in a stunning hotel in Legian , just a